| When a former World War II B-26 bomber pilot who had survived 44 missions over Germany earned his B.F.A. degree in Industrial Arts at the University of Illinois and began exploring jewelry-making techniques with his students at the University of Colorado, he had no idea that his passion would eventually lead him back to the Hill Country of Texas (which he first discovered during his fighter-pilot training days at Lackland Air Force Base in San Antonio) to eventually found the half-century-old jewelry company that now bears his name.
In the early 1950s, James Avery decided to leave the teaching profession and go into the jewelry business full time. He also returned to the church after many years spent as a self-described "defensive agnostic," explaining, "That is why so much of my work is in Christian symbolism."
He started with $250 in capital, which he invested in hand tools plus some scraps of silver and copper. For the first three years he worked alone, in a humble garage, at a simple bench he made himself. Word spread of the craftsman in the hills, and gradually people found their way to his door. In 1957, he hired his first employee and mailed his first Christian jewelry catalog. It was 16 pages long and featured 39 items, all handmade. In 1965, he incorporated the company as James Avery Craftsman, Inc., and in 1967 built the company's present headquarters on 20 rustic acres near Kerrville, Texas. James Avery officially handed over the reins of his company to sons Chris (CEO) and Paul (Executive Vice President) in 2007, but he remains the Chairman of the Board Emeritus and spends most days in his office in Kerrville doing what he loves best: designing and creating new jewelry items.
From the very beginning, James Avery preached the gospel of integrity and good taste — hence the company's slogan, "A tradition of integrity". It was James Avery's desire to create jewelry that had meaning for him and his customers as well as having lasting value. "The Avery Look" is not about being new. Instead, it seeks to assimilate and reflect many cultures and the art of those cultures. "One might say that The Avery Look is an attempt to embody an insight into all ages and periods of artistic achievement. It is difficult to define," says the company website. But each piece must pass the fourfold test that has become the company's guiding philosophy: Simplicity, Integrity, Meaning, and Universality.
Perhaps the company's best-known piece embodying this four-part philosophy is the Crosslet Ring. An Avery favorite since its introduction in 1962, this ring sends a simple, direct message of faith. Its deceptively uncomplicated design depicts a tapering band ring in 14-karat gold or sterling silver with a cut-out cross at its center. It is available in both Wide and Narrow versions: The Wide Crosslet Ring measures 7/16 inch wide, while the Narrow Crosslet Ring measures 5/16 inch wide. Variations on the Crosslet theme include the Small Crosslet Ring (wherein the cross is cut into but not through the ring); the Raised Textured Crosslet Ring (which is just what it sounds like); the Square Crosslet Ring (ditto); the Crosslet Heart; the Crosslet Butterfly Charm; the retired Teardrop Crosslet; and the Crosslet Bookmark.
Identifying James Avery jewelry items from their look alone is — except for the Crosslet Ring — not always easy. However, genuine pieces are always marked and hallmarked, with the exception of the dangle charms. The hallmarks do vary slightly, but in most cases they are based around a three-candled candelabrum with the initials JA at its base. This candelabrum may be accompanied by the © (copyright) symbol, either on its left or on its right or even above or below the candelabrum, along with the notation STER or 925 (for the percentage of actual silver in sterling silver) or 14K or 585 (the numerical designation for 14 karat) underneath the candelabrum. I've seen at least one charm that was hallmarked with the candelabrum plus the word STERLING. I've also seen one retired sterling silver cuff bracelet that was hallmarked with the candelabrum plus the notation STER M.
On some items whose design is too fine to fit the candelabrum hallmark or on those for which room must be left for engraving, it may say simply: AVERY 925; AVERY STER; AVERY © STER; or AVERY © 925. In one case, on the Animals of the Ark Bangle Bracelet, I've also seen the hallmark AVERY STERLING. The dangle charms usually have no hallmark at all. The hallmark may vary even on the same piece within the jewelry line, depending on when it was produced.
For gold items, look for the notation 14K, 18K, or simply 585 along with the trademark candelabrum or just the word AVERY, sometimes along with ©.
Mixed-metal items will bear both the 14K notation and STER, STERLING, or 925 with the JA candelabrum or AVERY. A retired brass and sterling silver Christmas Tree with Ornaments "pindant" (combination pin/pendant) is marked with the candelabrum plus the hallmark BRASS © STERLING. A pair of sterling and brass earrings and another retired "pindant" — a dove symbolizing peace, reconciliation, and the Holy Spirit — are marked with the signature JA candelabrum plus the hallmark © BRASS STER.
In the case of sterling silver chains, they will be hallmarked AVERY STER, AVERY STERLING, AVERY 925, or AVERY 925 STERLING on a flat loop adjacent to the clasp. A chain may even be marked AVERY STERLING on one side of the flat loop and 925 on the other. A ring clasp may also be hallmarked STERLING. If it is a lobster-claw clasp, it may be stamped 925 on one side of the claw, the head, or the base.
Gold chains are marked AVERY 14K or AVERY 585 14K on the flat loop adjacent to the lobster-claw clasp, while the lobster claw is marked 14K or 585.
On the newest items, the candelabrum and other identifying marks and their accompanying hallmark(s) are crisply laser-etched, whereas on older items they are stamped.
There is one other special hallmark to look for. In order to maintain the quality for which the company is justly famed, James Avery, Inc., is vertically integrated, meaning that they design, manufacture, market, and sell their own product line. But approximately 20 years ago, some turquoise finishing work was outsourced to Mexico. Items from this era bear the James Avery signature hallmark candelabrum along with the notation 14K (or STER or 925) and the word MEXICO.
James Avery offers the full gamut of jewelry and related items, including: bracelets; charms; cuff links; earrings; money clips; necklaces; pendants; pins; pocket pieces; and rings plus bookmarks, cameo cards, paperweights, ornaments, and wall plaques. They manufacture 1100 designs and 14,000 separate jewelry items for men and women in sterling silver, 14k and 18k yellow and white gold, and gemstones.
Specialty items include the religious items for which the company originally became known along with gifts for anniversaries; baptism, confirmation, and First Communion; birthdays, including Quinceañera; Christmas; Easter; Father's Day; graduation; Mother's Day; new baby; purity; Valentine's Day; and, of course, a comprehensive line of wedding and engagement jewelry, including wedding bands.
Another specialty line is camp charms. There are 165 camp charms alone, commemorating summers at Camp Arrowhead, Camp Kickapoo, Camp LaJunta, Camp Mystic, Camp Waldemar, Happy Haven, and Heart O' The Hills, among others, plus more generic but equally adorable charms depicting camp icons such as a bunk bed, footlocker, rubber raft, canoe, boat paddle, life preserver, badminton birdie, tennis ball, kerosene lantern, swim fins, english stirrups, western saddle, archery target, bow and arrow, and I (heart) CRAFTS.
Finally, there are 8 milagros (miracles) charms and several university charms. In addition to "Ivy League" charms with various numbers, there are charms for Baylor University, University of Houston, Oklahoma University, Texas State University, The University of Texas, and Texas A&M.
James Avery also is known for their strong belief in serving their community with the same passion and care they bring to crafting their jewelry. They support a number of organizations on a local level in the cities in which their stores are located, including those involved in health care and relief; education and development of children; faith-based organizations; arts and culture; and the environment. On a national level, they have teamed up with Boys & Girls Clubs of America as their primary charity.
In 2008, James Avery offered a special God Bless Our Troops Pendant in 14-karat gold and sterling silver, sales of which benefited the Boys & Girls Clubs of America's support of the U.S. Military Youth Centers.
The famed jeweler now has 48 retail locations: 41 in Texas, 1 in Colorado, 1 in Louisiana, 2 in Oklahoma, and 3 in Georgia. They will polish any James Avery item for free if you bring it in to them. A comprehensive catalog of the company's designs — including some, but not all, retired pieces — also can be seen on their website at http://www.jamesavery.com. But the best source of "estate" (previously owned) and/or retired James Avery jewelry is eBay, and many pieces in excellent condition can be found at considerable savings.
On any given day, searching for "James Avery" will pull up about 1000 items, including store inventory, at prices ranging from 99¢ to more than $1000. Searching for James Avery without quotes pulls up a few more items than searching "James Avery" with quotes, but they may not all be "James Avery" items. It pays to search for James Avery/"James Avery" rather than just browsing the James Avery category, because there are only about 800 items altogether in that category as opposed to the 1000+ items pulled up by a search for "James Avery" or James Avery. Miscategorized items often can be real bargains because less bidders find them.
Check our listings for a good selection of estate James Avery jewelry — including many retired pieces — in excellent condition. |
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