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ALL ABOUT FABRIC
Natural Fabric: Wool, Cotton, Silk, Linen, Hemp, Ramie, Jute
Man Made Fabric: Acetate, Acrylic, Lastex, Nylon, Polyester, Rayon, Spandex
Acetate is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn’t melt as easier and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.
Acrylic is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
Canvas is an extremely heavy-duty fabric used for making sails, tents, marquees, backpacks, and other functions where sturdiness is required. It is also popularly used as a painting surface, typically stretched, and used on fashion handbags. Usually made of cotton such as twill. Canvas comes in two basic types: plain and Duck. The threads in Duck canvas are more tightly woven. It can be used for artwork painting.
Cheesecloth is a loosewoven cotton cloth, such as is used in pressing cheese curds.Cheesecloth was very popular as a material for blouses and shirts during the 1960s and 1970s. Cheesecloth is available in at least seven different grades, from open to extra-fine weave. Grades are distinguished by the number of threads per inch in each direction. Some examples are listed here.
Chiffon is a lightweight sheer material with a slightly rough feel to it. It can be made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibers, but is usually associated with silk or nylon and can be dyed to almost any shade desired. If made from Polyester, it is difficult to dye. Under a magnifying glass it resembles a fine net or mesh which allows chiffon to have this see-through property.
Chiffon is most commonly used in evening wear, especially as an overlay, giving an elegant and floating appearance to the gown. It is also a popular fabric used in blouses, ribbons, scarves and lingerie. It is not, however, an easy fabric to work with because of its lightweight and slippery nature. Due to its delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently. It is very easy to tear inside a washing machine. A garment made of chiffon can rip apart while the wearer is sleeping in it. Most chiffon nowadays is made from polyester (for stain resistance) which is woven as a Stretch-knit fabric. Stretch-knit is a way of making non-stretchable fabrics stretch.
Corduroy is a fabric comprised of twisted fibers that when woven lay parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord." Modern corduroy is most commonly composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a channel (bare to the base fabric) between the tufts. The word "corduroy" has French origins, being derived from "cord du roi", which translates to "cloth of the king".
Corduroy is considered a durable cloth. Socially, the clothes made from it are considered casual, and are usually favored in colder climates during seasonal periods. Corduroy is most commonly found in the construction of trousers. The material is also used in the construction of (sport) jackets and shirts. The width of the cord is commonly referred to as "wale"; the size of the wale. The width of the wale makes some uses more common than others. Wide wale is more commonly found on trousers; medium, narrow and fine wale fabrics are usually found in garments used above the waist.
Cotton, cool, soft, comfortable, the principal clothing fiber of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton "breathes". What would we do without cotton? Since cotton wrinkles, polyester was added to give it wash and wear properties for a busy world. In recent times, the consumer determined that polyester, although easier to care for, took away the cool from cotton and also added a "pilling" effect to cotton/polyester blends. Consumers now often request "100% Cotton". Permanent finishes also added to the all cotton fabric gave a wash and wear property to cotton. cotton. The cotton fiber is from the cotton plant’s seed pod The fiber is hollow in the center and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. "Absorbent" cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fiber absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Chlorine bleach can be used to restore white garments to a clear white but this bleach may yellow chemically finished cottons or remove color in dyed cottons. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.
Mercerized cotton is treated to permanently straighten the cotton fibers which then becomes a smooth, rod-like fiber that is uniform in appearance with a high luster. Cotton is often blended with other fibers such as polyester, linen, wool, to "blend" the best properties of each fiber.
Denim, in American usage since the late 18th century, denotes a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp fibers, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though "jean" denoted a different, lighter cotton textile. This is because our usage of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy, for whom the first denim trousers were made. In 1789 George Washington toured a Massachusetts factory producing machine-woven cotton denim.
The word dungarees, to identify heavy cotton pants such as overalls can be traced to a thick cotton country-made cloth, Dongari Kapar, which was sold in the quarter contiguous to the Dongari Killa, the fort of what was then known as Bombay.
Flannel is a woollen fabric of various degrees of weight and fineness, made usually from loosely spun yarn. Today, many so-called flannels are made with a large mixture of cotton or synthetic fibres. These are more correctly called flannelettes. In fact, in some countries (e.g. U.K), it is illegal to trade flannelettes under the name 'flannel'.
Flannelette is a light-to-medium weight woven cloth that is commonly used to make clothing and bedsheets. It is usually made from either wool and cotton, or wool and synthetic fibre. The term "flannel" is also often used to refer directly to the clothing created from flannelette.
Flannel and flannelette can be woven in either a tight twill weave or a plain weave, although this is often obscured by napping one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then bleached, dyed, or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.
In the U.S., flannelette, commonly referred to as flannel, was commonly thought to be the fabric of woodsmen, lumberjacks, and farmers. In the U.S, due to the fact that many people in the Pacific Northwest of the United States (especially in Seattle, Washington) have had a tendency to wear it, flannelette there has become associated with grunge music. This idea was even further popularized by the fact that many rock, metal and grunge musicians from the 70s to the present often wear clothing made from it. Flannel has been thought by some, generally beginning in the 1980s and most prevalently in that period, to be a fashion statement (or in some cases an anti-fashion statement), and has been more broadly associated with slackers. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, the term "flannel" refers to wash/face cloths.
Gauze is a thin, translucent fabric with a loose open weave. Its name may derive etymologically from the Persian word for silk, via the Spanish word "gaza". It is not as soft and smooth as silk and often feels more rough.
Hemp is currently being used by designers in clothing. When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. No, hemp fabric does not contain the narcotic chemical that, when smoked produces the "high" that smoking marijuana produces. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibers which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. The finest hemp for fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibers.
Jute is a glossy fiber from a plant. It is seen most often in sacks, rope, twine, and as backing on carpeting.
Lastex is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.
Linen, elegant, beautiful, durable, the refined luxury fabric. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.
Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of the plant. The luster is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fiber. These textiles can also be bleached, printed on, or finished with a number of treatments or coatings.
Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily. Modern linens are typically manufactured of natural fibers like cotton, silk, modal, and (sometimes) flax, as well as synthetic fibers including polyester, rayon, etc. Historically, linens were manufactured almost exclusively of fibers from the flax plant ("linum usitatisimum") but also hemp, cotton and/or a blend of these fibers.
Muslin type of finely-woven unbleached or white cotton cloth, produced from corded cotton yarn. "Sheeting" is the name for wide muslin. It is often used to make dresses or curtains but may also be used to complement foam for bench padding. In clothing, muslin breathes well, and is a good choice for hot, dry climates.
Nylon became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.
Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from the continuous filament of silkyarns. Nowadays silk has been replaced by synthetic filament fibres such as polyester or nylon. Many variations can be found of organza.
Polyester is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps due to the double knit fad of the 1950, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric. Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended garments.
Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
Ramie is also similar to linen and is a bast of plant fiber. It is natural white in color, has a high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria and molds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fiber from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.
Rayon, from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed.
Technological advancements to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet.
Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
Satin is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. A satin is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacings in a fabric. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a "satin." If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen.
A satin-woven fabric tends to have a high luster due to the high number of "floats" on the fabric. Floats are "missed" interlacings, where, the warp yarn lays on top of the weft yarn, or vice versa. The floats tend to make the fabric look glossier as well as give it a smoother hand in most cases.
Many variations can be made of the basic satin weave including a Granite weave and a Check weave. Satin weaves are used commonly in apparel goods such as eveningwear and fine clothing. They can also be found in linens, such as bedsheets as well as in some industrial usages and athletic gear such as shorts and baseball jackets.
Seersucker is a thin, all-cotton fabric, commonly striped, used to make clothing for summer wear. Seersucker is woven in such a way that some threads bunch together, giving the fabric a wrinkled appearance in places. This feature causes the fabric to be mostly held away from the skin when worn, facilitating improved heat dissipation and air circulation. The wrinkled look also ensures that seersucker clothing will look good even when worn by people working in hot weather. It also means that ironing is not necessary. Seersucker was first used in the U.S. by the working class but was later adopted by the upper classes and became a staple of attire for the Southern gentleman.
Common items of clothing made from seersucker include suits, shorts, and shirts. The most common colors for it are white and blue, however it is produced in a wide variety of colors, usually alternating colored stripes and puckered white stripes. Seersucker was originally developed in India. The word originates from the Hindi, Urdu, and Persian words "shir o shakar" meaning "milk and sugar."
The U.S. Federal Trade Commission definition for spandex fiber is "A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85 percent of a segmented polyurethane".
Taffeta (sometimes spelled taffety) is a crisp, smooth woven fabric made from silk or synthetic fibers. The word is Persian in origin, and means "twisted woven". It is considered to be a "high end" fabric, suitable for use in ball gowns, wedding dresses and in interiors for curtains or wallcovering. There are two distinct types of silk taffeta: yarn-dyed and piece-dyed. Piece-dyed taffeta is often used in linings and is quite soft. Yarn-dyed taffeta is much stiffer and is often used in evening dresses. Whilst Silk Taffeta has been classically woven in Italy and France and until the 1950s in Japan, today most Silk Taffeta is produced in India. Originally this was produced on handlooms, but since the 1990s has been produced on the most modern looms in the Bangalore area. From the 1970s until the 1990s the Jiangsu province of China produced some fine Silk Taffetas. Unfortunately they were less flexible than the Indian mills who now dominate production. Other countries in South East Asia and the Middle East are weaving Silk Taffeta but not yet either at the quality or competiveness of India. The most deluxe Taffetas are still woven in France, Italy and the United Kingdom.
Terry (also towelling in British and toweling in American English and froté or frotté in many other languages) is a fabric with loops that can absorb a lot of water. It can be manufactured by weaving or knitting. Items that may be made from terrycloth include towels, bedlinen, and sweatbands for the wrist or head.
Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads. Examples of twill fabric are chino, gabardine, tweed and serge.
A Twill with ribs in both sides, called herringbone.
Twill, from a practical standpoint, is a warm weather material, less well suited for cold weather.
Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it its distinct feel. Velvet can be made from any fiber. It is woven on a special loom that weaves two pieces of velvet at the same time. The two pieces are then cut apart and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls.
Velvet's knitted counterpart is velour. Velvet was very expensive and was considered to be among the luxury goods together with silk. Corduroy and velveteen were considered the "poor man's velvet" when they were first produced.
Velvet is difficult to clean, but in modern times, dry cleaning is used.
Velveteen is a cotton cloth made in imitation of velvet. The term is sometimes applied to a mixture of silk and cotton. Some velveteens are a kind of fustian, having a rib of velvet pile alternating with a plain depression. The velveteen trade varies a good deal with the fashions that control the production of velvet.
Wool fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.
Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.
Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.
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